FONTODI

The Fontodi estate is located in Panzano, almost at the centre of the Chianti Classico region. Like Felsina, which claims an Etruscan origin for its name, Fontodi also has a long history; vines have been cultivated here since the time of the Roman empire, and documents prove there was vinification here as far back as the 16th Century, at a farmhouse then referred to as Case Via. The current owners, the Manetti family, also have many centuries of history in Chianti, although not with viticulture. For three hundred years this family has been renowned for the manufacture of terracotta, and it was not until 1968 that the family decided to move into wine, with the purchase of Fontodi

Currently in charge of the 67 hectare estate which lies just south of Panzanno, at the heart of the Chianti Classico DOCG, is Giovanni Manetti, aided by cousin Marco. Giovanni's first involvement in the family winery was in 1979, and before long he had hired reputable oenologist Franco Bernabei; together they have been instrumental in upgrading many practices at Fontodi. A most significant and recent development was the construction of an ultra-modern cantina, completed in 1998. The fruit from the vineyards, which lie in a south-facing amphitheatre known as the Conca d'Oro (which translates as golden shell) on marl and clay galestro soils, are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel in this new winery, with punching down of the cap to increase extraction. Once finished it matures in wood in the brand new barrel cellar, the transfer process being gravitational rather than by pumping. All the wines are aged in French oak, with the premier cuvées going into new oak, and the lesser wines into the older barrels.

The estate produces a straight Chianti Classico, into which goes some high quality fruit, including grapes once destined for the Riserva, which has been discontinued to allow this. The wine receives up to a year of barrel maturation, mainly in French barriques. Of the two flagship wines, Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is predominantly Sangiovese with about 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Vigna del Sorbo cru, 8 hectares in size, had been planted up early in the Manetti's tenure, but it was Giovanni and Franco that were instrumental in creating this wine, one of the first Sangiovese-Cabernet blends. This is equally true of Flaccianello della Pieve, the estate's 'Super-Tuscan', one of the first such 100% Sangiovese wines, which originates from a 10 hectare cru. Both cuvées are aged in barrel, and Flaccianello sees some malolactic in wood also. There are a number of other wines produced, the most significant of which are the Syrah and Pinot Nero cuvées bottled under the Case Via label. The Pinot Noir reflects the influences on Giovanni's wine education, having grown up at a time when Chianti was a much derided region, and he looked abroad to Burgundy , among other regions, for inspiration. The Pinot vines were planted in 1985, as were the Syrah vines, during a period of youthful experimentation for Manetti.

Giovanni Manetti and Franco Bernabei continue to produce beautiful fruit and craft a portfolio of stylish wines that display an abundance of typicity; they have improved and modernised, always looking forward, and yet have maintained a sense of traditionalism, a sense of place. The wines almost always impress on the palate, showing a depth of characterful fruit, and the poise and balance that can be found with Sangiovese. The wines of the 1999 and 2001 vintages are particularly strong, with the latter vintage showing great consistency; the wines are excellent at all levels, and for all varieties; Pinot Noir, Syrah and Sangiovese. These are bottles which no Italophile should be without.

www.fontodi.com

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